Selvedge Denim: Fit & Tailoring
The fit and feel of your jeans are important, and here at Stuarts London, we understand that perfecting both is vital not only to your look but to get the most out of your purchase.
Purchasing your first pair of selvedge jeans can feel overwhelming. Don’t worry; we are here to silence all those voices that are screaming, “how should they fit?” and “aren’t your thighs too big for selvedge denim?” and give you the answers to all of your questions.
We often get asked a range of questions about selvedge denim, including how they should fit, which body shape they are best suited for, amongst a whole host of other queries – so, we’re answering them all for you! Let’s start with one of the most commonly asked questions about selvedge denim.
how should selvedge denim fit?
The beauty of selvedge denim is that it stretches with time. Taking this into consideration, you should aim to find a straight-cut pair of slim jeans that are snug when you first wear them. It is recommended that you even buy a pair of selvedge jeans that are a size smaller than what you would usually wear to cater to wear and stretch over time.
Top trick: When purchasing selvedge denim jeans, you should have enough room between your body and the waistband to squeeze a finger.
You will find that the look and feel of the jeans will become looser over time, which should be considered when you are purchasing.
For specific brand fit guidelines, you can consult our comprehensive fit guides below:
• Nudie Jeans Fit Guide
• Edwin Jeans Fit Guide
• Naked and Famous Fit Guide
Is selvedge denim more comfortable?
Selvedge denim is not for the faint of heart. They can be challenging to care for, and at times, they can be uncomfortable, but you have to admit they look good. It can take a few months to wear selvedge denim to a reliably comfortable place. Honestly, stick in there – it’ll be worth it in the end.
Is selvedge denim good for bigger thighs?
It is important to consider a range of body shapes and sizes when it comes to the shape and fit of selvedge denim. Which brings us to our next question – Can selvedge denim be a good fit for those with larger thighs?
Guys with bigger thighs often experience more wear and tear with their jeans and can often be subject to crotch blowout. Finding the right fit can be difficult for those with bigger thighs, and it is always best to check with the brand size guide to check measurements, specifically on the upper thigh areas.
Selvedge denim stretches over time; therefore, it is important to give your jeans some time to relax and shape into a comfortable fit and feels suitable for you.
Is selvedge denim good for bigger thighs?
It is important to consider a range of body shapes and sizes when it comes to the shape and fit of selvedge denim. Which brings us to our next question – Can selvedge denim be a good fit for those with larger thighs?
Guys with bigger thighs often experience more wear and tear with their jeans and can often be subject to crotch blowout. Finding the right fit can be difficult for those with bigger thighs, and it is always best to check with the brand size guide to check measurements, specifically on the upper thigh areas.
Selvedge denim stretches over time; therefore, it is important to give your jeans some time to relax and shape into a comfortable fit and feels suitable for you.
How tight should selvedge denim jeans be?
As you probably guessed, selvedge denim jeans need to be tight. But what does that mean? Where should they be tight, and how are you supposed to know if they are tight enough? That is where we come in. At Stuarts London, we recommend that you answer the following questions whenever you try on a new pair of selvedge denim jeans.
Does selvedge denim shrink?
Selvedge denim is known as unsanforized denim. Sanforization is the process that reduces the amount of shrinkage that occurs after the first wash, and the fabric is stretched, fixed and shrunk in the process to ensure shrinkage doesn't happen in the cleaning process.
Due to selvedge denim being unsanforized, you can expect some level of shrinkage but no more than 10%. Remember that selvedge denim stretches about 3--5% over time, so any shrinkage will eventually be catered for with stretch.
Selvedge Denim: Care
Getting the most from your selvedge denim is essential, and one of the best ways to do this is with the correct care and attention. Here at Stuarts London, we have been wearing selvedge denim for decades, and over the years, we have gathered a range of tips and tricks, and we’re finally sharing them with you to ensure that you can get the most from your denim pieces.
How do you wash selvedge denim?
Top tips for washing Selvedge DenimYou can expect selvedge denim to fade over time, which usually occurs during the washing process. To make sure the fade is even,turn the jeans inside out.This will expose the water and detergent to the dirty areas of the jeans and prevent any bleeding from happening.
Make sure that youwash the jeans alone.You can ensure that the denim won't run and stain other garments in the same load by washing the jeans alone. Let’s face it, the last thing you want is a blue stained t-shirt that is supposed to be white.
Wash them in the bath!Hand washing your jeans in the bath is better for your jeans, as it is not as harsh of a process, and you can control how much force is applied. You will also naturally find a temperature that your hands are comfortable with, which means your water won’t be too hot for the denim.
Don’t use too much detergent.Many people think that adding more detergent to their washing load will make their clothes cleaner, but this can cause a build-up of the detergent on the clothing. If you follow our advice and clean your jeans in the bath, you don’t want to add too much detergent to the tub.
Go for natural products.If you’re too cautious about using detergents in the bath, you could go for an alternative of natural products. Use one cup of vinegar and one tablespoon of salt. It is believed in the selvedge denim elite circles that this combination can help the indigo stay in the fabric longer.
Submerge the jeans for 45 mins.Leave the jeans to soak underwater for 45 minutes. If they try and float, use something to hold them down. You can then drain the bath and fill it again to get rid of the dirt. Repeat the process again to get rid of the grime and then finally, once more, to make sure all of the dirt is gone.
How to dry selvedge denim?
Once you have washed your selvedge denim, you’re going to need to dry them properly – but how do you dry selvedge denim?There are a few ways that you can dry your selvedge denim:
The towel method:Place a towel on the floor and lay the wet jeans on top to absorb the water.
The shower method:Hang the jeans up in the shower and let them drip dry.
The shaded washing line:Hang the jeans on a washing line where the wind can blow them dry, but make sure that they stay out of direct sunlight as this can impact the look of the jeans, and they can begin to look faded.
Wear them wet:Stick with us on this one! We know that it may sound bonkers to wear your jeans before they have dried fully, but wearing them when they are 90% dry will give them a slight stretch.
Can selvedge denim be ironed?
When it comes to ironing your selvedge denim, there are a few things that you have to consider before reaching for the iron. The first thing is to consider the denim type.
If your selvedge denim is 100% cotton, you should set your iron to the cotton setting, which is usually a high heat and steam. You will need to use a cooler setting for selvedge denim that has any stretch.
Top Tip: To protect the jeans from any burns, place a tea towel cloth over the jeans and iron the cloth as it will add a layer of protection from the heat.
You should then iron the pockets first before continuing to each leg.
Does selvedge denim bleed?
Selvedge denim can bleed, so it is best to make sure that you wash them alone. This will ensure that any dye that does bleed from the denim doesn’t stain or ruin any other garments that you are also washing in the same load. If your denim is going to bleed, it is more than likely to happen during the first few washes.
How often should you wash selvedge denim?
To ensure that you get the best out of your selvedge denim, you should refrain from washing them for the first 3-6 months. This will allow them to mould to the shape of your body. If you feel like you need to wash your jeans, we recommend that you try to do so as little as possible or adopt a soft wash system that isn’t as tough on the jeans.
Weird selvedge denim care hacks
The denim community has weird and wonderful ways of caring for their selvedge denim jeans, and because we don’t want you to miss out – we thought we would share some of the wackiest denim care hacks.
Walk into the sea wearing your jeans We’re not joking! Some denim enthusiasts like to clean their selvedge denim by wearing their beloved pair of jeans and walking into the sea. This method can have mixed outcomes, but many people in the community favour this method as they believe it prolongs the rich look of the indigo and prevents any fading.
The salt and sand in the seawater can be abrasive, and if you want to create a faded look, you can rub sand on the jeans to create your own custom fade. The sea method is excellent for stretching your jeans if they are too tight, but it is worth mentioning that seawater can also have other (potentially nasty and disgusting) things floating around. If you are to use this method, we recommend washing them afterwards. Seawater can also contribute to crotch blowouts, so make sure you’re not walking into the sea to wash your selvedge denim every weekend.
Throwing your jeans into the freezer This method has been disputed for years but is a novel one if nothing else. It has not been proven that putting your jeans in the freezer will make them cleaner or fresher, but some enthusiasts live by this method.
Adding your jeans to a freezer in a ziplock bag will capture the bacteria and take away any smell for a while, but once you begin to wear the jeans again and your body heat activates the bacteria – you will be back to the beginning.
Freezing your jeans is a technique that has been stated to be eco friendly – so if you are looking for eco-friendly ways to clean your jeans, this could be the method for you!
Why is Selvedge Denim better than Conventional Denim
Q:What is Selvedge denim ?
Q:Why is it more expensive than other normal denim?
A: Selvedge denim is a high premium fabric, made in a traditional way of weaving. Produced on a traditional shuttle looms, which weave the fabric with one continuous thread. This thread goes back and forth during the weaving process, so the weft loops back into the edge of the denim and creates its "self edge" or selvedge, an edge that cannot fray.
Compared with common method using projectile looms, shuttle looms produce high quality denim. During the 1950s projectile looms replaced the traditional shuttle looms, because these produce the fabric faster and wider (60 inches or wider). Projectile looms use individual threads for each weft weave, which results in frayed edges and a denim of lower quality. Producing traditional denim on vintage shuttle looms is more time consuming and the fabric width is limited to 30 inches, more expensive. However the method of using a single thread produces a tighter weave that results in a superior strength fabric that is built to last. It is only through this process a highest quality of denim can be achieved.
Traditionally, the denim made on shuttle looms is so narrow, that 3 yards are required to make a pair of jeans. Projectile looms only require 1.5 yards for a pair of jeans. The characteristics of selvedge, denim jeans are tightly woven, and heavy weight fabric, as well as the red thread in selvedge, which can be seen when the jeans are turned up. Edwin jeans recently launched a rainbow selvedge which was a unique three colour selvedge edge. Each pair is a unique product, the fabric is irregular by nature, which produces a unique over time which is impossible to create artificially.
At Stuarts we stock Levis Vintage, Edwin and Wrangler Bluebell , Lee Archive, in Selvedge denim.
Selvedge Denim: History
We often get asked a whole host of questions about selvedge denim, and if you’re looking for answers, this is where you’ll find them. So, whether you are looking for information about the history of selvedge denim or the brands that you should be wearing – our experts are on hand to tell you exactly what you need to know. For more general queries about the fit and shape of selvedge denim - you should consult the selvedge denim: fit and tailoring guide available.
For other queries about how to care for your selvedge denim, including hacks and tips and tricks for how to stretch, wash and care for your new purchase in our selvedge denim: care guide.
What is selvedge denim?
It is often referred to as selvedge denim or selvage denim, but what actually is it? Selvedge is the name used for a type of denim that is harder to produce, of a higher quality and is usually worn unwashed.
Many contemporary brands cater to the selvedge denim demand, but how do you filter selvedge denim from mass-produced denim? It can usually be spotted by looking at the cuff of the jeans. The selvedge within the denim is usually white and has a coloured yarn in the middle.
The construction method sets it apart, and one of the key distinctions from mass-produced denim is that selvedge denim is woven on a shuttle loom using one continuous thread. The construction method of the garment is where it gets its strong and rigid properties from.
Why is selvedge denim better?
In short, selvedge denim is better due to the complex construction process that each pair of jeans is created with.
Selvedge denim is designed to be robust and rigid due to its extensive construction and manufacturers have mastered the process over decades to ensure that the denim won’t unravel. The clean edges of selvedge jeans are durable because their ends are woven together, ensuring that they won’t fray.
Another reason that selvedge denim is regarded as superior to mass-produced denim is because of the tightly woven fabric that it is produced with, which offers further strength and durability. There is often heightened attention to detail that comes with the garment, and the care process that comes with selvedge denim pieces is far more extensive than the cheaper and more mainstream denim counterparts.
Where does selvedge denim come from?
In the 1950s, every denim piece that brands manufactured was selvedge. The popularity of jeans started to increase because film stars and celebrities, such as James Dean, started to bring denim pieces into mainstream culture. To keep up with the growing demand, manufacturers needed to ditch the lengthy process of selvedge denim and create jeans faster. This meant a switch from the traditional shuttle loom production process to a projectile loom.
In the late 70s and early 80s, there was a boom in denim for Japanese culture. As a result, Japanese denim brands bought the old shuttle looms and started to produce and improve the world of selvedge jeans. This is why there are so many Japanese selvedge denim brands producing high quality, stylish selvedge denim today.
How is selvedge denim made?
Selvedge denim has a rigid construction process and involves a complex method that uses a shuttle loom. Also known as shuttle weaving machines, the denim is created with a neat, finished edge.
The process of creating selvedge denim
The shuttle of the shuttle loom moves across the loom carrying a bobbin of weft yarn along the warp yarns (these are the vertical threads) and ultimately weave the fabric together.
The weft yarn is not cut after each insertion; it is woven tightly towards an “endless” edge that is compact and won’t unravel like more mass-produced denim.
Why is selvedge denim more expensive?
The process of creating selvedge denim is slower, more robust and complex than the average creation process of mass-produced denim. The fabric width of selvedge denim is narrow. This means that a higher yield of fabric is needed per pair of jeans.
As the productivity of creating selvedge denim is lower, consumers can expect the price tag to be more expensive than mass-produced jeans. It is also becoming harder to get hold of due to the ageing equipment used to create the fabric.
Is selvedge denim durable?
Selvedge denim is very durable. The lifespan of a pair of selvedge denim jeans can be anything from a few years to decades, depending on the construction, brand, use and care of the product. Even if selvedge denim has been worn daily for years, you can still expect them to hold up. If you experience minor wear or rips, they can be patched up fairly quickly and easily, and some brands offer this as a free service.
Who invented selvedge denim?
The very first pair of denim jeans were created for workwear by Jacob W Davis in 1873, at the request of a customer. Davis had purchased fabric from the one and only Levi Strauss & Co., which we now know as Levi's.
The idea eventually caught on, and Davis partnered up with Strauss to create the workwear pants we now know as jeans. As their primary purpose was for miners and ranchers, the fabric needed to be durable. Thus, the garments were created using the selvedge denim process for practicality and function instead of style.
Which brands do selvedge denim?
Here at Stuarts London, we have a range of brands that offer selvedge denim. They include:
