Merz b. Schwanen has built a reputation around doing the simple things exceptionally well. With roots stretching back to 1911, the German label combines traditional manufacturing techniques with timeless design, creating premium basics that are made to be worn, washed and lived in. From its iconic loopwheeled T-shirts to classic Henleys, the brand has become a modern menswear favourite without losing sight of its heritage.
The story began in 1911, when Balthasar Merz founded the company in the Swabian region of Germany. Originally producing practical cotton workwear, underwear and Henley-style garments, Merz b. Schwanen became known for its durable fabrics and traditional production methods. As the clothing industry moved towards faster, more industrialised manufacturing, the original company eventually ceased operations, leaving its distinctive approach to garment production behind.
That heritage was rediscovered in 2011, when Gitta and Peter Plotnicki came across a vintage Merz b. Schwanen Henley at a Berlin flea market. Their search for the story behind the garment led them to the brand’s origins and, eventually, to old loopwheel machines that had been left unused. These machines became central to the label’s revival, allowing Merz b. Schwanen to bring a traditional method of manufacturing back to modern menswear.
One of the brand’s most recognisable garments is the 215 Loopwheeled T-Shirt. Made in Germany from organic cotton, the heavyweight jersey is produced using traditional loopwheel machinery, creating a soft yet durable fabric without the need for side seams. Details such as the triangular underarm inserts and classic crew neck give the 215 its distinctive fit and comfort, while its understated design makes it an effortless everyday staple.
The 215 gained an entirely new level of recognition when it appeared on Jeremy Allen White as Carmy Berzatto in the hit series The Bear. The simple white T-shirt quickly became one of the show's most talked-about pieces, with viewers searching for the exact garment behind Carmy's signature look. Costume designer Cristina Spiridakis confirmed the 215 was chosen for its fit, construction and distinctive details, bringing the heritage German T-shirt to a whole new audience.
Today, Merz b. Schwanen continues to focus on what it does best: timeless, well-made essentials with a strong connection to traditional craftsmanship. Its T-shirts, Henleys, sweatshirts and underwear reflect a philosophy of simplicity, quality and longevity rather than chasing short-lived trends. From its early workwear roots to its starring role in The Bear, Merz b. Schwanen proves that when a classic is made properly, it never really goes out of style.