23oz King Of Lords Selvedge Denim
Canadidan selvedge brand Naked & Famous are entering 2022 with another serving of outlandish 23oz denim jeans. The Japanese denim is created by combining the extremely irregular shaped and bumpy King of Slub yarn on the exterior warp, and the super textured and knotted Lord of Nep yarns on the interior weft. The pair are one of the heaviest denim jeans the brand have produced to date, using raw Japanese denim before being constructed in Canada.
23oz King Of Lords Selvedge Denim, Details
The unique ‘neppy denim’ is the thanks to the creation of a unique slub yarn previously used on the King of Slub and Lord of Nep denim models. Thick irregular indigo ridges rise through the face of the fabric among a blizzard of knots and loops in a topography of nuance and texture to create the look of raw denim caught in a snowstorm.
The King of Lords denim is one of the first models Naked & Famous have released that is unsanforized. The process of sanforizing jeans essentially entails burning the very top layer of the denim cotton to prevent a fury texture developing. Sanforizing also artificially pre-shrinks your denim meaning they wont shrink after the first wash – a big issue amongst denim before this process was brought in. You may wonder then, why would you not sanforize jeans?
Firstly, the King of Lords denim jeans couldn’t be sanforized as that would burn off and bleach the white nepping effect, resulting in brown/black blotches where the yarn had been burnt. In addition, to compensate for the 30% shrink rate of raw denim, Naked & Famous pre hand-wash the jeans for the customer preventing shrinkage and also slightly breaking them in, making them more comfortable to wear immediately.
Over time with wear, as the indigo starts to fade, a wide gradient of indigo becomes visible, and the extreme thickness of the yarn allows for a three-dimensional textured fade opposite the white cotton neppy flecks. Other details include contrast stitching, buffalo leather patch, red selvedge ID, and silver metallic buttons and rivets.
Naked & Famous, Brief History
Founded in 2008 by Brandon Svarc, the Canadians vision was to create his very own raw denim brand with a reputation and legacy purely built on quality. After working within the fashion PR industry, Brandon had seen first hand how the big fashion labels and names foundations relied on celebrity endorsements and advertising in order to gain traction. He hoped by combining his previous experience in PR and his family, who had been in the garment industry for 65 years, he would be able to grow his brand organically with a more ‘word-of-mouth’ approach.
The philosophy of Naked & Famous was and still is to be known for how the Japanese denim looked, felt and produced – rather than who was wearing them. The idea behind using the raw Japanese denim was to give the customer a blank canvas so the jeans would be distressed naturally over time rather than providing pre-distressed jeans which Brandon compared to “buying a Ferrari covered in rust and scratches”.
Despite the ‘blank canvas’ philosophy, the Canadian still found many other ways to channel his creativity via the jeans in the way of glow-in-the-dark denim, the worlds heaviest denim at 32oz and thermochromic colour changing denim (released in 2013) which changed colour upon heat/cooling applied to the materials.
13 years on Naked & Famous still continue to strive for innovation by developing new fabric types and collaborating with other denim labels, such as The Flat Head & Burgus Plus. On average annually N&F will release up two twenty different fabric types in their denim collections ranging from classic left-hand twill to more unusual styles like their newly released turmeric dyed 12oz jeans, made using turmeric spices.